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Long-distance organic

Is it really a savior for smallholder farmers in the global south?

Posted by Tom Philpott at 5:05 PM on 17 Aug 2007

In the latest Victual Reality, I addressed the "eat-local backlash" -- the steady trickle of media reports seeking to debunk the supposed social and environmental benefits of eating from one's foodshed.

Some of the charges are easy to refute. Hey, in Maine, it takes more energy to produce hothouse tomatoes in January than it does to ship them up from South America!

Really? Try eating something besides fresh tomatoes in January in Maine. Hell, if you really want Maine tomatoes in January, organize to invest in community-scale canning infrastructure, and then capture July's bounty for the whole year.

There's another charge that's a little trickier to address: that a strict buy-local ethos harms the interests of farmers in the global south. In this view, consumers in the developed nations have a moral duty to buy from farmers in the south, particularly organic ones, so that these farmers can "pull themselves out of poverty," etc.

A wide range of people cling to this view. Whole Foods CEO John Mackey -- when he's not secretly shilling his company's own stock in chat rooms -- brandishes it as evidence of his social responsibility. Peter Singer, that somewhat daft philosopher and animal-rights enthusiast, pushes it too, most recently in his tome The Way We Eat.

Just last week, The Times of London -- a once-great paper turned into a yellow sheet by its owner Rupert Murdoch, who recently got his paws on our own great Wall Street Journal -- gave it a full airing.

Titled, in full Murdochian subtlety, "Organic Farmers Face Ruin as Rich Nations Agonize Over Food Miles," the piece begins thus:

As she proudly surveys a plantation of avocado trees and bananas, surrounded by pools of fresh cow manure, Jane Kimani cuts an unlikely figure as an ecological villain.

Like other farmers in this village, about 15 miles (25km) outside Nairobi, the Kenyan capital, she lives in a modest dwelling of brick walls and a corrugated-iron roof only yards from cow sheds, a new apiary and vegetable plots. She does not own a car and uses little electricity.

She farms organically without knowing it, simply because, like many people in a country where two thirds of the population live on less than 50p a day, she could not afford fertilisers and chemical sprays. Her carbon footprint is insignificant.

Yet Mrs Kimani and her husband, Charles, face economic ruin because of the alleged environmental impact of their modest farm. The Soil Association, which certifies about 80 per cent of organic produce in the United Kingdom, has threatened to take away the organic certification from farms in East Africa because their produce is transported to Europe by air, contributing to global warming.

Now, this is an extremely complex topic, one I plan to return to in detail.

For now, let me recast it in new terms. In the Mackey/Singer/Times view, what we have here is a case of wealthy-nation enviros crassly sticking it to poor-nation farmers, driving them to ruin over an abstraction (lowering one's carbon footprint).

But let's look at it like this: In Kenya, where millions of undernourished, underemployed people choke the slums of Nairobi and Mombasa, should the fertility of the nation's prime farmland, and the efforts of its most ingenious farmers, rightly be used to grow organic tomatoes for consumers in Mother England?

By the same token, should the best farmland of Guatemala and Mexico be devoted to stocking the off-season produce shelves at Whole Foods outlets in the comfy areas of Austin and Manhattan?

To me, it's an insane economic order that sucks food -- and thus soil fertility and farmers' labor power -- out of countries with high levels of poverty and malnourishment. That people in the rich nations can do so with a thunderclap of self-congratulation -- that defies belief.

Now, it's important to note that an economic order that makes Kenyan smallholder farmers seem dependent on British or U.S. consumers for their livelihoods, while their countrymen scrounge for food, didn't arise from nowhere.

For at least 30 years, supranational institutions like the World Bank and the IMF have been subtly and not-so-subtly pushing farmers in the south to produce commodities for the global market -- a policy that has led very few out of poverty, but has instead caused a rural economic meltdown and the rise of megacities ill-equipped to absorb the literally hundreds of millions of people who have been pushed off the land.

That's a topic I addressed on my old blog, Bitter Greens Journal -- and one I plan to return to soon.

Sounds familiar

We have to keep sending dollars to Kenyan farmers; imagine what would happen if we pulled out!

We have to stay in Iraq; imagine what would happen if we pulled out!

One thing's for sure, right? The brown people just can't live without our tender ministrations.

grist.org

Frustrating to say the least

However, your vision of eating locally will eventually unfold to some extent by default with increasing transport costs. Also, I doubt if this media attention will have a negative effect on the eat local movement. They are striking at the negative environmentalist stereotypes they have in their heads, not the intelligent businessmen behind the local movement. So, never give up.

In the end, it all comes down to biodiversity. Poison Darts--Protecting the biodiversity of our world
Peter Singer; winter tomatoes

Why is Peter Singer "daft"?  Not because he is a leading proponent of animal rights, I hope? -- is supporting animal rights a sign of immediately excommunicable eccentricity?  (Yes, he is a leader in the field of animal-rights ethics, which is somewhat more than an "enthusiast.")  He does indeed come across as a bit autistic at times.  But generally the way his mind works is impressive and interesting, whether or not we quite agree with him in the end.  It is a misfortune that so many dismiss him at once as being a purveyor of evil counsel.

Anyway, this subject is interesting and complicated, and it would be more satisfying if we got a more neutral introduction to it, rather than being ushered simply into the mind of Tom Philpott.  Of course Tom is wise, brilliant, gifted, etc., and we shall probably end up agreeing with him.  But please let us work that out for ourselves.

On another matter, one of no great importance, which you professional journalists know all about: What exactly does "yellow sheet" mean?  In the context of the "paws" of Rupert Murdoch, I am thinking of how we might put on the floor a piece of newspaper for a puppy to pee on.  But surely that is not right, is it?

Chickens deserve our true friendship! So do fish! So do other sentient beings! Let us learn to be kind.

Tom and David....

your arguments are quite simplistic and don't make sense. Countries need foreign exchange in order to buy other things. No country can be entirely self-sufficient in everything and exporting some of their agricultural products so they can generate revenue to buy things like cellphones, medicines, computers, etc. is entirely reasonable. I'm sure if you asked the people in these countries they would agree. At least 9 out 10 of them.

And David, playing the faux paternalism card, that somehow it's condescending to assume that brown people need to export to rich nations is bizarre. No one is suggesting that. All economists and other development specialists are saying is that many agricultural economies will never be able to move to higher value-added products and raise material standards of living if they are cut off from foreign markets. That's all.

What's condescending is for rich white people in the North to somehow think that these people want to remain as peasants working in fields for the next 100 years in order to satisfy some strange notion of "being close to the Earth" and not overly "materialistic" that is concocted almost entirely in the mind of rich environmentalists.

I teach environmental economics and blog at www.voicesofreason.info.

"Environmental economics"=dismal science

your arguments are quite simplistic and don't make sense. Countries need foreign exchange in order to buy other things. No country can be entirely self-sufficient in everything and exporting some of their agricultural products so they can generate revenue to buy things like cellphones, medicines, computers, etc. is entirely reasonable. I'm sure if you asked the people in these countries they would agree. At least 9 out 10 of them.

Simplistic? Please. How do you explain that Kenya is exporting food to that 10 percent of the population that is malnourished? Tell THEM that the food from the field in front of them will travel overseas by jet aircraft so that the wealthy members of the population can purchase I-phones, laptops and medicines that will be withheld from them.

I believe in Nigeria, Iraq and Afghanistan the local populations have evolved a response to extractive economics that leave the local populace impoverished. It seems to involve a lot of nitro-cellulose and trinitrotoluene applied to resource extraction assets.

Extraction of local assets for foriegn markets where the local population is not getting basic needs met always has the hidden tax of military and paramilitary infrastructure required to suppress local populations. (see colonial america, haitian rebellion, Boer war, Indochinese conflict, etc). These taxes are both energetic, (food, fuel, fertilizer) and economic, (subsidies, wage-suppression, labor suppression, preferential tax schemes) and are generally paid by the general populace in order to benefit a few privilidged individuals (the wealthy) in the form of "profit."

In short, even organic imports of commodity crops are subsidized by the poor of both the import and export countries in order to increase the wealth of the very few rich. We're starving poor folks at the point of a gun so you can get those "organic" bananas.

Enjoy.

Put the Carbon Back

Bigness

The size scale of the market within many developing countries has undermined many small farmers.  Small local markets within these countries are being replaced by large grocery stores and chains.  These larger stores demand more production from larger producers.  So many small farmers are being shut out from their own country's marketing system.  And the large growers replacing them are most likely to be the ones with the capacity to export their productions to the developed nations.

So, the economic forces driving bigness in production and marketing are more at the bottom of the problem than any of these organic standards issues.  This is one reason why I am skeptical about biofuels helping the poor in the third world.  Sure, they might find jobs on the big energy plantations but to think they are going to have ownership or share greatly in the profits of these mega enterprises is ignoring the fact that bigness and efficiency are the driving forces in today's world.  The industrialization of the landscape is proceeding to all corners of the world.  And our demands here, Globalization Central, are driving the trend.  

Tropical Farmers Destroy Tropical Forests

Encouraging agriculture in tropical countries is a climate disaster. Much of this agriculture comes a result of razing tropical forests - by far the most powerful lungs the planet has, storing more than 550 metric tons of CO2 per hectare. Whether it's Big Ag or small farmers, clearing of forests for agriculture, ranching, and other purposes accounts for more than 20 percent of global greenhouse gas emissions. Global south folk would be much better off if they are given financial credit for protecting tropical forests rather than destroying the forests that give the world life (and also give local communities clean water and air). Read more about this idea here.

Sometimes true, Sometimes not

Biodiverst has it right.  The correct way to balance the concerns is through carbon taxes.

The truth is some local eating can be good, but 100% would create all the problems you attempt to discount.

Does the third world need us? Depends on what you mean by need.  If we pack up and leave and become isolationist, suffering will initially rise.  Likely they won't entirely depopulate, but it could be a long time before anything improves (think Europe in the dark ages).  The simple truth is too many people are alive in the third world to be supported without technology which we control.  Simple things, like water, for example, which even with the limited amount of technology that has been traded or given is still woefully inadequate.

If you want to stop buying food from third world regions, you should definitely plan to increase investment in the area either through charity or development, or ideally both.  I've always thought the solution to the problems of the third world lied in charitable organizations supporting economic development, rather than replacing it.  That idea is more and more prevalent these days, and I've seen some benefits from it.

Anyhow, short form, it's a complicated situation, and you're not completely right.  More importantly, you're attacking the problem through the most superficial means if all you're doing is trying to insure all your food is grown locally.  Also important is that by doing this as an individual action, you may be accomplishing no more than making Guatemalan tomatoes cheaper for the average consumer.


Let's not forget tariff escalation

In all these discussions -- especially involving food miles -- there is a frequent assumption that exports of agricultural products from the South to the North necessarily involves airplanes. That is not always, and need not, be the case.

But one of the features of the current world trading system that discourages developing countries from engaging in more value-added processing -- in carbon terms, transforming their produce into something that can be shipped by boat rather than jet -- are import tariffs applied by developed countries that are much higher on processed products than raw products.

These are only my personal opinions.

have to agree with Caniscandida and Jason...

...your argument assumes a lot (I don't any modern examples or references), is lazy in its attempts to persuade ('daft' indeed), and is at least partially countered (with a dose of rationality seemingly absent from your own text) in Singer's book.

It is one thing to defend the 'buy local' ethos. It is another entirely to suggest that buying goods from impoverished nations produced under Fair Trade or SA8000 certification is tantamount to propping up a military regime.

And just to be clear, Singer talks about Fair Trade Certified goods, not just any crops. The lengths to which the certification goes to ensure the protection of the producers are extensive.

Also, seasonality affects not only crops grown in the US. Without money, or crops to trade, how does the producer whose land does not support tomatoes or grain for 3 months of the year hope to survive? To say 'they can grow everything for themselves' sounds a bit too much like 'let them eat cake' for my liking.

Whatever you think of it, we live in a global free-market economy. To suggest that a country and its people can participate in that economy when we are busy shoring up all the funds makes no kind of sense.

I think Singer's rationale could best be summed up in the following order of enviro/ethical preference;

  1. Local Organic Seasonal
  2. Imported Fair Trade Organic Seasonal (pref non-air freight)
  3. Local Organic
  4. Non-air freight Imported Organic
  5. Local
  6. Non-air freight Imported
  7. Imported

The primary purpose of the 'eat local' philosophy is to preserve the environment and support local produce. I do not think that buying out of season produce from Fair Trade certified growers in third world countries need necessarily be viewed as counter to either of those goals.

Darwin's Nightmare and Jane Jacobs

To those trying to inject rationality into the food export dependence of less developed countries, I suggest you view Darwin's Nightmare, a documentary about the invasive lake perch in Lake Victoria, the European demand for perch filets that necessitates such an imbalanced system, and the impoverished, hungry Tanzanians who are left to chew on the fish carcasses after the filets have been air-cargoed north.

Something is to be said for self-sufficiency in economic regions.  Of course, almost since the dawn of civilization has there been trade, and no region can be 100% self-sufficient, but to rely on exporting goods in order to buy other goods abroad is playing with fire.

In Cities and the Wealth of Nations, Jane Jacobs stresses the importance of import replacement with locally made goods, so as to not be dependent on the whims of outside markets.  She makes the case of Uruguay, which after World War II was heavily dependent on exporting meat and a few other goods.  When European economies rebounded and started producing their own meat, Uruguay's economy took a huge hit because of its export dependence.  It was not ready to manufacture the goods it formerly had the money to import, and inflation and poverty grew.

We have more of a moral obligation to help less developed countries become primarily self-reliant than to perpetuate their dependence on foreign markets.  I'm not advocating abolishing food trade, and I wholeheartedly support buying Fair Trade (especially for specialty products), but it should be an exception to the rule of each region producing most of its food for itself.

Well said, Brudaimonia

I didn't mean to suggest that I'm ant-trade, per se. I simply reject the neoliberal dogma that says cross-border trade must be maximized at any costs, or pretends that trade policies that benefit multinationals (like the tariffs on value-added goods mentioned by Ron) somehow redound to the common good.

Too often in quote-unquote developing nations, there's much more investment in food-distribution infrastructure that moves food out of countries than there is in infrastructure for moving food from rural areas to urban ones. These investment decisions tend to be made based on deals between national elites and transnational institutions. Smallholder farmers aren't consulted.

I'd like to see aid polices that consult smallholder farmers, leverage their knowledge, and try to link their interests with those of urban dwellers.

As for Singer and his daftness, I can't abide by his Puritanical disregard, or even disdain, for pleasure. For example, in The Way We Eat, he lays out a vision for "animal-free meat" that I find chilling. He conjures up an image of a "vast lump of meat, hundreds of feet across, growing in a culture fed on algae." He laments that with current technology, "producing muscle tissue in a laboratory equates to $5 million per kilogram," but holds out hope that one day such a process will be economical enough to "supply the entire world with meat." He awards the project with his  highest accolade: "we can see no ethical objection to it."

He thus proposes hyper-industrial food production as a remedy for the ravages of industrial food production. To that (yes, daft) vision of a meatless future, I reply: pass the rice and beans.

Victual Reality

Balance

This issue, as so many here on Gristmill, seems to me not one of black & white, but of many shades of the rainbow.  Why is it that we cannot be happy buying local, organic tomatoes in season, while still happily supporting a fair-trade, organic, shade-grown, bird-friendly, non-sweatshop, etc., etc., coffee farmer in Guatemala? Are our moral green codes so strict that they will not allow us to responsibly, and sparingly, indulge in meat from a small, local, humane animal farm?  Can we not enjoy the best of fresh produce in the Northeast all summer long, while still importing the finest olive oil from Greece and Chauteauneuf-du-Pape from France?

I can remember, as a kid, that oranges in winter were a true luxury - something you found in the top of your Christmas stocking and rarely anywhere else.  OK - so have your tomatoes in Maine in February - just be prepared to pay $20 for one of them.  I'm perfectly in favor of indulgence, and perfectly OK with the import of non-local or non-seasonal foods, so long as people pay the true cost (carbon, shipping & production costs) for these items.  IMO, charging the true cost would turn tomatoes (and oranges, and bananas) in winter back into luxury items - occassionally splurged upon for a special occasion, but not relied upon for every meal.

Not black, not white, sometimes brown... but shades of every food stuff there is.  What's so wrong with that?

Finding the right nuanced view

This issue, as so many here on Gristmill, seems to me not one of black & white, but of many shades of the rainbow.  Why is it that we cannot be happy buying local, organic tomatoes in season, while still happily supporting a fair-trade, organic, shade-grown, bird-friendly, non-sweatshop, etc., etc., coffee farmer in Guatemala?

Good point, kmp.  I think what Tom is arguing against is regularly importing a large percentage of our food, organic or not, from long distances.

No one is harping about supplementing seasonal food from farmers' markets with some Fair Trade, organic specialty food products.  Indeed, goods like coffee or tea have less of a carbon impact from transportation, because they are relatively light in weight; in fact, when we drink Guatemalan coffee, it's mostly local due to the water we use to brew it.

What's not sustainable is getting most of your diet from Cascadian Farms or other large organic brands.  Consider Chad Heeter's article, My Saudi Arabian Breakfast:

Coming from another hemisphere, my raspberries take an even longer fossil-fueled journey to my neighborhood. Though packaged in a plastic bag labeled Cascadian Farms (which perhaps hints at a birthplace in the good old Cascade mountains of northwest Washington), the small print on the back, stamped "A Product of Chile," tells all -- and what it speaks of is a 5,800-mile journey to Northern California.

This is a good example of why local beats organic, ceteris paribus.

"chilling"; seasonality

On Peter Singer noch einmal: OK, Tom, I think I see how you are using "daft"; it is apparently close to, if not the same as, how I am using "autistic."  The reason my adjective is better than yours in this case (not that I am trying to compete, God forbid!), is that autistic people can say many true and indeed remarkably brilliant things to which we may find it worthwhile to pay attention, whereas the conversation of people called "daft" is simply dismissed as a waste of time.

We should remember that "The Way We Eat" has two authors: Singer, and another leader in animal-rights ethics, Jim Mason.  Their suggestion about producing an artificially cultured something-or-other that is physically the same as "meat," but involving no abuse and slaughter of sensitive living creatures, might or might not be a joke and nothing more.  But I suspect a large part of their point is precisely to get people such as yourself to react by throwing back such judgmental adjectives as "chilling."  That reaction is what is really interesting here.  What is "chilling" about eating their true-but-false meat, which is not "chilling" about eating true-and-traditional blood-spattered-slaughterer-friendly meat, since samples of either, when served on the plate, do not resemble parts of living, breathing animals at all?  You need to ask yourself that.  And by provoking that kind of self-examination, Peter Singer proves himself to be an admirable idiot-savant indeed (to use a rightfully out-of-fashion term), however little we may like to have him over as a guest at dinner.

In general, I agree with what you, and our always excellent latitudinarian commenter KMP, have to say about trade, and ethical global responsibility.

One ethical desideratum that I consider important, up there with the local-is-generally-preferable-to-exotic (well, not everyone would agree that ethics comes into it), is encouraging the sense of seasonality, the traditional wisdom that we eat different things at different times of the year.  The other side of that coin, of course, is discouraging the self-entitled habit of us in the world's rich countries, which seeks to deny seasonality, and to get whatever we want to eat whenever we want it.

Chickens deserve our true friendship! So do fish! So do other sentient beings! Let us learn to be kind.

local organic seasonal

all winter

beef

carrots

potatoes

venison when the beef runs out

canned what ever else you can grow during the rest of the year

scurvy

what me worry

Scurvy!

Yipes!  Visions of those poor young sailors back in the Age of Exploration and Exploitation, snuggling in their cramped hammocks to find the only kind of consolation left to them, even as their teeth were falling out!

Meanwhile, though, how were the people back home on the mainland getting on?  No scurvy there, we suppose.  To paraphrase "Jurassic Park"'s Malcolm: Civilization Finds a Way.

"Oh yeah, but then, anyone who lived past his/her fortieth birthday was considered surprisingly long-lived."

Well, perhaps.  We should certainly study how health, longevity and trade are inter-related.  Generally in antiquity, there could be an abundance in one valley and a famine over the hill in the next (or so I am told), and there was little for the starving population to do to relieve their hunger.

In classical antiquity, prior to the growth of the city of Rome, Italians were apparently able to feed themselves fairly well enough.  Following that growth during the late Republic and the Empire, however, it was necessary to import grain to the residents of Rome from Egypt, and control of the grain shipments became an important political bargaining chip.

Of course I am not advocating that we are ethically required to go hungry at certain times of the year, or to get malnutrition-related diseases.  But on the other hand, I am hoping that we not confuse "health" with "hedonism."

Chickens deserve our true friendship! So do fish! So do other sentient beings! Let us learn to be kind.

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