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'Tis the Season (for a long, pointless discussion in the dark ...)

Posted by Roz Cummins (Guest Contributor) at 12:18 PM on 06 Aug 2006

When I lived in North Cambridge in the early 90s, we lost our electricity with depressing regularity during the summer. Suddenly we would be plunged into inky darkness and, with the silencing of fans and air conditioners, radios and TVs, the neighborhood would become eerily quiet, except for one sound. My neighbor had a battery-operated cassette player and, apparently, only one cassette: Madonna's songs from the soundtrack to the movie Dick Tracy. He played it relentlessly, and the tunes wound their way between the houses and down the street until finally even he couldn't take it any more.

Sometimes, in an effort to take our minds off the heat, the darkness, and our neighbor's taste in music, my housemate and I would engage in long, rambling discussions about nothing in particular. One topic we lighted upon was: if forced to choose between the following foods, which would it be?

Round One: tomatoes or chocolate? Round Two: Bread or cake?

My roommate surprised me by picking chocolate and cake. I had no idea he was so impractical! To be honest, though, my own choices, tomatoes and bread, weren't based purely on practicality or nutritional value -- they were based on love. I can't imagine a world without tomatoes. I'm glad I didn't live in Europe BT (before tomatoes).

Come to think of it, pre-Columbian South America was probably no picnic either, but at least they had tomatoes and chocolate.

Here are two recipes that make the most of bread and tomatoes and chocolate and cake. Panzanella is a bread and tomato salad, and I've also created a vegan recipe for chocolate cherry cake.

Panzanella with Lemon-Chive Vinaigrette
Serves four as a side dish, two as a main dish

Most classic recipes for Panzanella call for red wine vinegar, but I wanted to create one with a little bit different flavor profile. I used sourdough bread, lemon juice instead of red wine vinegar, and mustard to turn the dressing into a vinaigrette.

I'm not a huge lover of sourdough, so the next time I made it I stuck with regular French bread, but if you really like sourdough, by all means try it in this recipe. The flavor really comes through.

If you have the chance to use tomatoes of different colors, the salad will be absolutely beautiful. Put the bread cubes out the night before (or at least early in the morning) so that they can get stale before it's time to make the salad, and be sure to use a good, strong loaf of French, Italian, or Pullman bread. If you don't start with sturdy bread you will end up with mush. Trying to "flash dry" the bread by baking it in the oven or even leaving it in the oven (with just the pilot going) to dry overnight can over-dry it, and when you add the liquid it will just turn to paste. My method is to cut the bread into cubes, put it in a paper bag to keep critters out (cats and whoever else shows an interest), and let it sit out on the counter overnight. That usually does the trick.

You can make the tomato salad part of the dish right before serving it, or early in the morning on the day you plan to serve it. Store it in the fridge if you make it several hours before serving, but don't add the bread cubes (step three) until 30 minutes before serving. Be sure to give the tomatoes time to come to room temp before serving.

Ingredients:
3 cups fresh whole tomatoes, chopped
3/4 teaspoon salt (or more if you prefer, but wait until serving to decide)
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
pinch sugar
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 teaspoon grainy mustard (optional)
8 - 10 leaves of basil, shredded (rolled into a ball and cut with a knife)
2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives
1 and 1/2 cups cubed stale French or Italian bread (1" cubes are good)

  1. Chop enough tomatoes to make 3 cups. Pour the chopped tomatoes and their juices into a bowl. Sprinkle the tomatoes with the salt and pepper. Add the pinch of sugar and toss. Wait five minutes.
  2. Pour the olive oil and lemon juice into a jar. Add the mustard if you like. Shake the jar and then pour the oil-lemon juice mix over the tomatoes. Add the shredded basil and chopped chives. Toss until everything is evenly distributed. Refrigerate until you are ready to serve it, but let it come to room temperature before serving.
  3. About 30 minutes before serving add the bread. Toss thoroughly.
  4. Taste and adjust seasoning. Serve at room temperature.

-----

Vegan Chocolate Cherry Cake
Serves nine modest-portion-type people or six piggywigs.
Takes about five minutes to make and 25 minutes to bake.

This cake is based very, very loosely on a chocolate "salad dressing cake" from Peg Bracken's I Hate to Cook Book, which I read obsessively as a kid. (The book was very subversive for its day.) This cakes goes by other names as well -- wacky cake, crazy cake, etc. -- but it's always very good. One day it occurred to me that, due to the lack of eggs or dairy products, it's also completely vegan.

I created a cherry version by substituting cherry juice for water and almond extract for vanilla (almonds and cherries are botanically related and taste great together), and adding whole cherries to the batter. I can't always afford fresh cherries, so I sometimes use cherries from a jar or from the freezer.

If you use frozen cherries, a little bit of the cake around the cherry will still be "molten" like the fancy cakes offered in restaurants. It makes the cake slightly tricky to cut, but it's worth it. Also, the longer you are able to restrain yourself and let the cake cool, the easier it will be to cut.

Serve slightly warm with whipped cream for best effect.

Sift together:
1 and 1/2 cups white flour
1/3 cup unsweetened cocoa
1 tsp. baking soda
1/2 tsp. salt
1 cup sugar

Mix these wet ingredients:
1/2 cup vegetable oil
1 cup cherry juice
2 tsp. almond extract

Later add:
2 Tbsp. Raspberry vinegar

Then add:
About 10 cherries

For the whipped cream:
1/2 pint heavy cream
1 Tablespoon powdered or granulated sugar
1 Tablespoon Kirsch (cherry liquor) - optional

  1. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.
  2. Mix the dry ingredients together in a 9x9 baking pan. Put all the wet ingredients into a liquid measuring cup and add them to the dry ingredients. Stir until the batter is uniformly smooth. (Some dry ingredients hide out in the corners of the pan so be sure to dig down to incorporate those.)
  3. When the batter is thoroughly mixed add the vinegar. Incorporate the vinegar thoroughly and then put about 10 cherries spaced evenly throughout the pan.
  4. Bake at 375 for 25-30 minutes. The cake may crack a bit on the top. Put a toothpick in the center to check if it's done. If the toothpick comes out dry or almost dry, take the cake out of the oven.
  5. Chill the beaters and bowl that you'll be using to make the whipped cream in your refrigerator. Add the ingredients and beat until the cream holds soft peaks.

My Picks: Tomatoes and Salt

Mmmm. Your posting brought back memories of my childhood in northeast Tennessee. My mother is a doctor and every so often, when patients (it was Appalachia) could not afford to pay their medical bills in cash, they paid in crops. One farmer, Mr. Phillips, would show up on our doorstep with giant grocery bags full of of the ugliest, most misshapen tomatoes you have ever seen. Sprinkled lightly with salt and served on a heaping platter at dinnertime, they were all I craved on a muggy August night. Thanks for the flashback.

In kind payments

Thanks for your comment. My grandfather was a country doctor and some of the people who lived in the surrounding hills would pay their bills in squirrel or venison or something else that they had grown, raised, or shot. He took care of everyone -- nobody was turned away. He delivered and buried most of the people in the town. My grandmother was a nurse, one of the first women to graduate from her nursing school! (It's hard to believe now that it was ever considered a "men only" profession, but true!) Thanks for giving me an opportunity to think about them. - Roz

Tomatoes with salt

is also a childhood memory for me. I would walk into the garden with a saltshaker, grab them off the vine and pig out.

My wife is a pediatrician. No one has tried to pay her with game or crops yet.

In the end, it all comes down to biodiversity. Poison Darts--Protecting the biodiversity of our world

Cucumbers with salt

I finally joined a CSA this year and while I expected fresher, more delicious veggies, the true revelation has been the cucumbers.  

Who remembers that cucumbers actually have fantastic flavor?  I certainly did not. I remember loving them, liberally sprinkled with salt, as a kid.  But it has been years since I've actually savored a cucumber.  Slighty spicy, tangy, cool and refreshing.. they seem to defy description but are oh so good.  

Every Wednesday I pick up my share from the farm on my way home from work and, like a kid again, find myself diving into the bag to see if there are cucumbers this week and if so how many.  

Cucumber/tomato/feta salad, with plenty of fresh parsley, is a current fave.  Also a grilled chicken sandwich on homemade sourdough-wheat bread, with sharp cheddar, cucumbers and balsamic vinegar.  A baby lettuce salad with cucumbers, toasted walnuts, fresh raspberries and vinagrette is quite good.  The best part of all these recipes is that, while preparing them, I get to eat a few slices of plain old cucumber.... liberally sprinkled with salt.  Yum.

Cucumbers

Kaela (et al), if you're getting good cucumbers, and you like them, try this: Get a pitcher of water, cut up a couple of lemons, slice a cucumber, and leave both of them soaking in the water (in the fridge) overnight.

In the morning, voi la: cold lemon-cucumber water. There is nothing more refreshing in the summer heat.

grist.org

Vegan chocolate cake with whipped cream ...

Any suggestions for a vegan alternative to whipped cream?

Frequently asked technical questions about Grist's newsletters and website.
Hip Whip?

I recently saw something called Hip Whip in the freezer section of the local natural foods store. I didn't have time to read the label but I suspect it may be Vegan. I'll check it out the next time I am there. I also believe that Cool Whip may lack dairy ingredients (but that's not necessarily a recommendation.) So, happy hunting for a vegan whipped topping. I bet one's out there...waiting to meet its chilly fate atop a soy or rice-cream sundae or a nice vegan cake.

Yes ...

Hip Whip is vegan (and good).

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