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It ain't natural

But it could be organic

Posted by Kate Sheppard at 11:28 AM on 29 Nov 2006

Read more about: food | aquaculture | organic food

It's a good question, really:

When is a fish really organic?

The New York Times mulled this question in the business section yesterday. If the organic label hinges upon a vegetative diet and not using antibiotics or growth hormones, then farmed fish can be organic. But what's natural about confining thousands of fish in nets? And what's unnatural about carnivorous fish like salmon that feed upon other fish born in the wild?

Ponders the Times:

[A] proposed guideline at the Agriculture Department for calling certain farmed fish "organic" is controversial on all sides. Environmentalists argue that many farm-raised fish live in cramped nets in conditions that can pollute the water, and that calling them organic is a perversion of the label. Those who catch and sell wild fish say that their products should be called organic and worry that if they are not, fish farmers will gain a huge leg up.

And with the growth of the organic sector, and the growing number of eco-conscious vegetarians who can't resist the occasional fillet of fish (myself included), the Agriculture Department's decision on the subject will undoubtedly complicate the debate on seafood, what's natural, and what's organic.

I've got an idea...

Let's see how far we can stretch the word "organic" before it breaks!

Maybe the concept "organic" just isn't meant to be applied to all things. Other labels would do, like MSC for wild-caught, and a different one for farmed.

But broadening the term "organic" too much just turns it from something relatively specific--for people who know what they want--into something that people understand only on vague, general terms. It'll become (if it hasn't already) just a synonym for "good", "virtuous", "fancy" or "pretentious". Or "natural": Kate, your already confusing your terms.

For another thing, it threatens to break the bond of "good for you, good for the planet" that I thought was the original idea.

One good thing to come out of this...maybe...is if the certifying authorities hold themselves to very high standards, they could drive the development of a truly sustainable method of aquaculture. Because presently, I doubt that any commercial fishery, wild or farmed, is really sustainable.

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