Mere moments ago I was whinging about Seattle being unable to build the monorail,
paralyzed by an excess of open, transparent democratic process. Then I read this
-- "Camel trainers claim that the children's shrieks of terror spur the animals
to a faster effort." -- and I remembered that there are worse problems to have
than too much democracy.
That problem certainly does not plague Dubai,
the subject of a mind-bendingly
fascinating essay from Mike Davis (author of City
of Quartz, among other books), hosted on Tom's Dispatch.
The Persian Gulf city-state is rapidly being fashioned into a kind of massive
walled community for the global wealthy and dissolute:
Dozens of outlandish mega-projects -- including "The
World" (an artificial archipelago), Burj
Dubai (the Earth's tallest building), the Hydropolis (that underwater luxury
hotel), the Restless
Planet
theme park, a domed ski resort perpetually maintained in 40C heat, and
The Mall of Arabia, a hyper-mall -- are actually under construction or
will soon leave the drawing boards.
Under the enlightened despotism of its Crown Prince and CEO, 56-year-old Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid al-Maktoum,
the Rhode-Island-sized Emirate of Dubai has become the new global icon
of imagineered urbanism. Although often compared to Las Vegas, Orlando,
Hong Kong or Singapore, the sheikhdom is more like their collective
summation: a pastiche of the big, the bad, and the ugly.
...
Under his leadership, the coastal desert has become a huge circuit
board into which the elite of transnational engineering firms and
retail developers are invited to plug in high-tech clusters,
entertainment zones, artificial islands, "cities within cities" --
whatever is the latest fad in urban capitalism. The same phantasmagoric
but generic Lego blocks, of course, can be found in dozens of aspiring
cities these days, but Sheik Mo has a distinctive and inviolable
criterion: Everything must be "world class," by which he means number
one in The Guinness Book of Records.
Thus Dubai is building the world's largest theme park, the biggest
mall, the highest building, and the first sunken hotel among other
firsts.
It should come as no surprise that all this opulence comes at a price:
At the top of the social pyramid, of course, are the al-Maktoums and their
cousins who own every lucrative grain of sand in the sheikhdom. Next, the
native 15% percent of the population -- whose uniform of privilege is the
traditional white dishdash -- constitutes a leisure class whose obedience
to the dynasty is subsidized by income transfers, free education, and government
jobs. A step below, are the pampered mercenaries: 150,000-or-so British ex-pats,
along with other European, Lebanese, and Indian managers and professionals,
who take full advantage of their air-conditioned affluence and two-months
of overseas leave every summer.
However, South Asian contract laborers, legally bound to a single employer
and subject to totalitarian social controls, make up the great mass of the
population. Dubai lifestyles are attended by vast numbers of Filipina, Sri
Lankan, and Indian maids, while the building boom is carried on the shoulders
of an army of poorly paid Pakistanis and Indians working twelve-hour shifts,
six and half days a week, in the blast-furnace desert heat.
...
In addition to being super-exploited, Dubai's helots are also expected to
be generally invisible. The bleak work camps on the city's outskirts, where
laborers are crowded six, eight, even twelve to a room, are not part of the
official tourist image of a city of luxury without slums or poverty. In a
recent visit, even the United Arab Emirate's Minister of Labor was reported
to be profoundly shocked by the squalid, almost unbearable conditions in
a remote work camp maintained by a large construction contractor. Yet when
the laborers attempted to form a union to win back pay and improve living
conditions, they were promptly arrested.
Paradise, however, has even darker corners than the indentured-labor camps.
The Russian girls at the elegant hotel bar are but the glamorous facade of
a sinister sex trade built on kidnapping, slavery, and sadistic violence.
Dubai -- any of the hipper guidebooks will advise -- is the "Bangkok
of the Middle East," populated with thousands of Russian, Armenian,
Indian, and Iranian prostitutes controlled by various transnational gangs
and mafias. (The city, conveniently, is also a world center for money laundering,
with an estimated 10% of real estate changing hands in cash-only transactions.)
This dystopian vision -- what Davis calls a "monstrous caricature of futurism"
-- is the mirror image of the eco-city being discussed by
so many greens right now. Rather than devolving power, increasing efficiency,
and living in balance with the natural world, this city built on oil money
simply imports and burns up more and more of the one renewable resource the
oligarchs
love:
the labor of the desperately poor.
If you ever had any doubts that the green movement is intimately bound up
with the movement to secure democratic and economic freedom for the world's
poor,
Dubai should banish them once and for all.
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